Harvest Time

 

It is harvest time in Damongo. This generally lasts from end of August until the beginning of November. Unlike last year's rather devastating dry 'rainy' season, this year's rainy season (April-September) has been conducive to a healthy crop growth. These include corn (maize), tomatoes, peppers, okra (okro), casava, yam, and a variety of other fresh produce. These are not only vegetables that the local and national economies depend upon, but are also a very personal issue as so many use farming as a second means of income.

Today I joined some of the Diocesan staff as they harvested 'granut' - colloquially; or 'ground nut'; or, as we would say in America, the peanut. (When I first arrived, I was confused, the word sounded like 'granite' to me, as in 'granite soup'; not so appetizing sounding...🤣).

The Diocese’s land in Damongo is used the same way individuals use it; as a source of income; a vital way to help fund life. As with most work here, 'granut' farming is very labor intensive. The plant is hand-pulled from the ground and then the nuts (which grow underground, hence the name) are plucked from the plant. Then they are shelled, often by hand, though there are mills here for the larger quantities. Unlike what Americans buy in the grocery store, and eat at sporting events and bars, the seed here is usually eaten fresh. Roasting and boiling are done, but it seems a great majority is either eaten 'fresh' (directly from the ground and unprocessed) or turned into 'granut paste' (peanut butter) and then used in soup recipes. As far as I can tell, I'm the only one enjoying the PB&J sandwich, which are not a thing in Damongo. However, as with most foods here, I'm pretty assured of eating in a healthy manner no matter whatever local food I ingest.

 

Aside from the actual production process, I am most intrigued and appreciative of the social aspect of farming. Economically speaking, the owner/farmer of the larger plots are unable to do all the work themselves. They employ laborers at a 75/25 split, generally. Socially speaking, families and friends gather for a common cause. It's not only time to work, but to talk and catch up with each other. Often, these humble people will gather together to help a small farming friend and the friend(s) in turn will gather when help is needed. This is a reciprocal arrangement where no accounting is asked of. It reminds me of the traditional Amish 'barn raising' that exists in my home of Northern Ohio.

 

My favorite aspect of life in Damongo is observing the way people with so little relative material will happily share themselves and their time. They are so generous with each other. 'Tribalism' has become a mostly negative term in America during the latter part of my lifetime. To us it's a term that means choosing sides. Here, sides are sometimes also chosen, but more subtly; usually the 'tribal' connotation plays out so much more inclusively than exclusively. There are many enlightening things I am seeing here. Seeing people commune together where less money and technology are involved, achieving a common, humble goal is foremost among them. Perhaps there are many more things we can learn from those we consider 'less fortunate' than ourselves? Observing the 'more developed' world from here, I, for one, am open to accept whatever they have to offer...

 

PEACE

 

Vital and Exhausting Work

A few weeks ago, I posted some information and pics (on FB) about the very vital and exhausting charcoal producing process. For most people here in Damongo, it is the only fuel for cooking and thus a staple and part of life. There is no Kingsford in the stores here. 🤣

 

The first step is to gather very large tree limbs up to 100 pounds. Next, the wood is set fire and covered with fresh leaves and dirt. Then, it smolders for a week or so. When it is finished and cooled, it is then excavated, sifted, and placed in bags. From beginning to end, at least 15 hours of labor each from 3 people working on one mound that produces 5 bags at $5-6 per bag. 

 

My own role is generally to haul the wood to be burnt and the finished product to its destination in my truck. These being my good friends, I also provide a few drinks.🤣 These particular workers are volunteering their service free of charge for the church. Back-breaking work, done on weekend off-time for free, for a common purpose. Well done, indeed.

Oh, lest I forget: with smiles on the faces. Smiles are very common here. The women, in particular, still have to find time to clean, dress and feed their children, and take care of the family laundry by hand, regardless of this commitment.

I am continually amazed about how life here - simple, yet riddled with hardships most westerners cannot fathom - is generally led without complaint. Most of them don't know the life we know in the US (the life many of us DO complain about). Come to think of it, maybe not knowing that life is why I see so many smiles here.

Two-Thirds Marker

I have crossed the two-thirds marker of my initial commitment of three years here in the Damongo diocese. There have been more than a few challenges. I won’t lie. However, the challenges have paled in comparison to the personal rewards. I came to Ghana with few expectations; only with vague hopes of doing some good for a people I knew very little about and to gain experience and growth as person. As for the former, I can only hope. As for the latter, it’s a clear confirmation that continues to grow with each passing day.

After my valuable formation at Lay Mission Helpers in late 2022, I landed in Ghana in early February 2023 filled with much more exuberance than one might expect from a 57-year-old man. I was seemingly ready to take on the challenges resulting from my experience of my most recent career: facilities manager and handy man. Soon thereafter, when the Diocese realized I had restaurant/bar management experience, they added an advisory role to my duties by engaging me to help run the restaurant and bar. At the end of 2023, through the generous contributions of people like you, we were able to refurbish a truck, which enhanced both of those positions and added the third title of Unity Centre driver to my growing resume. At the end of 2024, due to circumstances, I was asked to be ‘Acting Manager’ of the entire Unity Centre operations (restaurant, bar and guesthouse) and it’s approximately 25 employees. I accepted this 4^th position with a certain reluctance.

 

My reluctance was fueled by conflicting thoughts: First, the 21^st century lay missioner is taught to go to another land to aid and assist; not to impose. An American volunteer with authority over a group of Ghanaians in many ways seemed to cross certain lines within me, though I fully understood I was the most obvious choice - due to experience - until a permanent solution was found. On the other hand (and there always is an ‘other hand’ BTW), God places us where we are supposed to be and we are asked to try to accomplish what we are capable of.  I firmly believe that. All of us are able to accomplish more than we even know. So, the position that was supposed to be filled by March 31^st continues to be filled by Damongo’s ‘Obrani’ (white man) missioner for the foreseeable future. I hope I am doing my best, but I won’t lie if I tell you that I am looking forward for the permanent hire to arrive and going back to my more humble duties.

 

In the end, my experiences so far have been very positive. I have helped to expand the restaurant by building 2 meat stands, enclosing the outdoor dining area and the outdoor cooking area, fixing what needs fixing, using the truck as a way to both save money for the Diocese and help employees in various ways. As manager, I delegate carefully; preferring to work alongside people as opposed to being a ‘boss’; resisting ordering people around.

 

I find myself very comfortable here in Damongo among the people. It’s like living in a nostalgic American small town of yesteryear, in a way. When I go to town, everyone greets each other warmly. I am creating relationships with the people here. From across the globe, somehow, we accept each other. Isn’t that what being a Christian is, after all? I’m most grateful.

 

My ‘official time’ is up early next year. Based upon the first two years, I have decided to extend for a fourth year and I thank you and LMH for your continuing support. I miss the US and especially look forward to meeting my 1^st grandchild, Jameson (born in November 2024) and reuniting with my two children when I return briefly in early 2026. However, I must look at where I am most useful. When I look at it through that lens, it’s clear to me that I’m most needed here on many levels. A common phrase in Ghana is, ‘It’s not easy.’ Very true, and ‘easy’ rarely dictates the essentiality of things. I am happy to realize that I am where I am supposed to be and that’s gratifying. Again, I thank you all.

 

PEACE             

Christmas In Damongo

Now that the anxiety and excitement of the Ghana presidential election is over, it’s time for the people of Damongo to do what they do best- celebrate the holiday season. The days before Christmas will be filled with events that will allow celebration, relaxation and joy. The Unity Centre and its hard-working staff are front and center as they close the year in style before regrouping and setting new goals for 2025.

The weekend of the 21^st kicked off with a double wedding of two men working for the Diocese, an accountant and a driver. Bishop Peter Paul officiated the special occasion at St. Theresa’s Parish Church. The ceremony itself was much more a vibrant celebration than the ritual that we are used to in the US. There is very heavily percussioned dancing, singing, and balloon decorations within the church itself; a nice blend of ceremony and the beginning of the reception which was held in the parking lot immediately after, where jollof rice (a national favorite) and chicken was served to all in attendance. Weddings here are very cost prohibitive to the couples relative to salaries. On top of that the groom must come up with a dowery for the bride’s family to satisfy tribal obligations. Hence, there is rarely any type of honeymoon, nor is there any help from parents or many gifts of money. The couples here are truly there to celebrate their commitment and love with all of their family and friends. Weddings like this are quite a sacrifice and I am always honored to take part. Best of luck to Evans and Vivian; Iraneus and Mildred! Cheers!

The following day, Sunday was the date of a revival of a past, yet discontinued, annual event- The Holiday Couples Dinner. From what I understand, this event was held in previous years and our Unity Centre leadership group has decided to revive it. We had approximately 75 people for this soon to be annual event, which featured dinner, drinks and music provide by a very interactive DJ. By any standards, it was very successful- certainly, a foundation for future annual events and a holiday staple.

The employee Christmas party capped off the long holiday weekend on Monday. The day began with a mass presided over by Bishop Peter Paul. The staff then gathered outside in the outside bar/restaurant area of the Unity Centre for the end of year celebration. Each employee was presented with gifts of food staples from the administration as well as a couple of drinks as a token of appreciation for the hard work provided in 2024. A good time was had by all.

Despite the fact that Damongo Christmas does not have all of the trappings we are so familiar with in the west- decorated trees and other nick-nacks, Black Friday sales and similar commercializations, Santa Claus, etc., my 2^nd Christmas here has been most gratifying. Frankly, I don’t miss those things. Here it is truly a time for true celebration; a time to renew friendship, to review the previous year and to commemorate the birth of Jesus. Certainly, I miss my American family, including my first grandchild who was born a month ago and who I will not see until early 2026. However, I feel that my ‘family’ continues to grow where I am, which makes me so grateful and growth is something we should all strive for. Here in Damongo, the Christmas spirit is fully present in the people. This is where I live now. I am thankful to carry all of you with me on my mission which is the reason why I know I will succeed. Peace and all good things to all of you and all you hold close. Merry Christmas! 

Funeral Memorial

I have just passed the halfway point of my 3-year commitment in Damongo working for the Diocese. The work itself has been very fulfilling. However, even more fulfilling has been my immersion into the local culture. I count many Ghanaians as friends. We work together. We eat together. We celebrate together. We even commiserate together, at times.

The culture here is much more communal than that of America. For a variety of reasons, I think it’s something we in the US have lost over the years. There are 35 tribes in Ghana. Locally, the Gonjas are most predominant, with the Dagarre and Frafras making up most of the local smaller Catholic population (as compared with Muslim - largely Gonja tribe). These two tribes have migrated from the Upper West and Upper East regions of the country, respectively. Certain tribes here associate in a joking way with another, which is the case of the Dagarre and Frafra, referring to each other as ‘playmates.’ I am continually interacting with both and I enjoy the banter between them.

Over the weekend of August 10^th and 11^th, I had the honor of taking an active part in the memorial service for Charles Naagieh, a local Dagarre man, who lived fruitfully as a farmer and held various other jobs during his time in Damongo. I actually met Charles on his deathbed, on the last day of his 82-year-old life. 

The foundation of the communal life here is tribe/family. In addition to the birthing parents, aunts and uncles are also referred to as fathers and mothers, as are other tribal elders, to a lesser degree. The same holds true of cousins referred to as brother and sister and tribal aged contemporaries. This inclusionary way of living means nobody falls through the cracks here. It also makes the planning of funerals and weddings very difficult because of travel and the desire to have everyone present. Such was the case with Charles.

I became aware of Charles through his daughter (fraternal niece), Cynthia, who works at the Catholic Secretariat. It was made known that Charles needed blood. I answered that call, donating on June 28^th 2023. I met him afterward and joined the family in prayer around his bed. He expired the next day. Because of the aforementioned travel coordination, Charles was buried about 6 weeks later in his hometown of Nandom, Upper West Region about a 4-hour drive away. The 6-week period between death and burial is very common here. I have heard stories of up to a year between the events. August 10^th and 11^th 2024 were set as the local 1-year memorial in Damongo so that those who could not travel to Nandom in 2023 could celebrate Charles life. This type of memorial is also a strong tradition among the Dagarre people.

As in nature, I believe that the birth death cycle is the foundation of our own relationships with each other and the world. Through my very brief interaction with the dying Charles, a very strong friendship developed with Cynthia and her extended family. I attend church with her, her sister, Mary and their children each Sunday. We regularly visit Dinah, Charles widow, for a beer or Pito, a traditional local drink. Truly, I feel as part of the family.

A few weeks before the local celebration, the family presented me with the cloth they had all dressed in at the funeral the year before (another unique tradition). I brought cloth to a local tailor who fitted me with an outfit that I wore to the concluding Sunday mass on the 11^th, along with the rest of the family. I also took an active part in the rest of the festivities that weekend which included food preparation and pito brewing by the women, traditional dancing and an all-night vigil complete with prayers on Friday night. 

The memorial mass the next day was followed by the party for about 100 people, which included a DJ and dancing, a meal for all who attended, and a few complimentary drinks. It warms the heart to see people with very few resources providing all comers with food, entertainment and memories in the name of their patriarch. A good time had by all. Sunday included the regular mass with close family members (myself included) adorned in the traditional matching outfits followed by another meal with the same group (about 20 of us). My main contribution over the weekend was transportation in helping to procure drinks and water, using Unity Centre refrigeration, and providing rides to the depot, as out of town people caught their transportation home. With my own family half of a world away, it’s very comforting to be so included in this one here.

Again and again, I find that engaging the world and people around me leads to wonderful relationships. We can never have too many good people in our lives. They are all around you waiting to be met. The more diverse the group, the better. As a matter of fact, due to the language differences, I find that I have to work quite a bit harder to express myself and to understand what is said to me here in Ghana and that extra concentration bears bountiful fruit. Bridging differences is indeed a very strong bond. As Mother Teresa so famously said, ‘Make your own Calcutta.’ Reach out to those around you in a mindful way. The sky is the limit for the spiritual rewards you will reap. 

Barka de Sala

 

One of many interesting things I have observed in Damongo is the way the various religious faiths get along so well. Northern Ghana is roughly 80% Muslim and the remainder Christian and a mix of Traditional African Tribal religions. June 17th was the Muslim observance of Sala, the ending of the fasting of Eid al-Adha (Abraham's sacrifice of the ram) holiday. The town was abuzz with positive activity. There were feasts of bbq'd meat everywhere. Well dressed people proudly walking around with smiles. The salutation, 'Barka de Sala' (Enjoy your Sala) is not limited to the Muslims. It is an observable and joyful heartfelt greeting shared by everyone.

 

Where I come from in America (Cleveland, Oh), the Muslim population is so small that the community was never on my life's radar. It's probably that way with most of the readers here. Due to media coverage and the way we learn history, I believe it's safe to say that most of us in the West believe there is an ever-present contentious feeling between the Abrahamic religions (Muslim, Christian and Judaism all share their geographic and theological roots in the figures and stories of the Old Testament, most prominently Abraham and Moses). We have become almost numb to constant Middle East squabbling and warfare since the Crusades almost 1000 years ago. Currently, our media often seems to pit different cultures and beliefs - which share far more similarities than differences - against each other for no more reason than ratings. 

I'm not naive. I fully understand that some radical followers of these religions have promulgated conflict for millennia all over the globe. But what I can report is that my observations on the ground in Ghana present a much more refreshing and optimistic reality. The people here share common struggles - poverty, health, environmental issues, among others. Which God is more 'powerful' or 'righteous' tends to pale to irrelevance in comparison when presented with such day-to-day realities. They depend on each other. Religious 'pedigrees' tend to pale in comparison.

There's an old Hindu saying in regard to religion and God: 'When there are so many fingers pointing toward the moon, we tend to concentrate more on the fingers than the moon itself.' How true. The world has many troubles (in addition to so many more wonderful and astonishing attributes!). Religious beliefs serve as a consolation and provide balance to many believers. That's what they're meant to do. When they divide, they are counterproductive and need to be rethought. It is so important to always be willing to grow and change for the better. Your brothers and sisters are all around you. Chances are, they have the same fears, mistrust, dreams and love that you do even though they may look different or follow different customs. Don't hesitate to reach out to each other. Disregard self-incubated, deluded and often paranoid reasons for your motivations in relation to others. 

I'm quite sure that the many things I observe on this part of my life's journey in Damongo are much more a learning dynamic than any attempts at teaching anything. I realized that going in. Of course, we should always be cognizant of doing both - learning and teaching. That is what life is ultimately all about. Barka de Sala, Happy Easter, Shalom (or any other heartfelt inclusion of others) are really all the same in the end. It's love. It's informing your neighbor that you wish them well; that they should celebrate the day, our dependence upon each other and our very common existence. Don’t just relegate it to designated holidays. Celebrate and include everyone everyday. Spread the love that is the only relevant energy of the universe.

Do you really think that the God we follow actually differentiates between how you profess it or act upon that motivation? Can we be so arrogant? I, for one, believe in the better angels of our collective nature.

PEACE

Growth Is a Gain Not a Loss

The most common misperception about missioning work is that it is a process of privation- giving things up and even enduring an amount of suffering. I find that nothing could be further from the truth. Certainly, there is a fair amount of adaptation - new culture, language, food, etc., but these things tend to add to personal growth after the initial ‘shock’ upon arrival. Growth is a gain, not a loss, after all. Many of those things that we grow to believe are ‘necessities’ are really conditioned comforts in most cases and often hinder spiritual growth, especially when we mistakenly believe they are responsible for our happiness.

I am fortunate in my capacity in helping to manage the restaurant, bar and guesthouse that I am able to meet and befriend such a wide variety of people, including all of the wonderful younger people that I work with. While many of them have desires for the things that we take for granted in the West, I rarely get the feeling that they are complaining about their individual situations.

While there is a universality in the way all people perceive the world, we all want the same basic things- security, health, purpose and love-, it is our uniqueness which spurs our spiritual growth and perceptions. There is no shortage of unique people here. There is Lazarus, the talented young German-trained electrician who patiently helps me navigate a very different electrical grid; Richard, who is my own age, alternately working as a plumber and chicken farmer. He is always able to provide sage cultural advice and good humor; Moses, the nursing school instructor, who is well versed in so many diverse spiritual practices, not least of which are those ancient African tribal traditions; Gifty and William, the stationary/boutique/plumbing supply proprietors, who stop by a few nights per week to share their delicious homemade cuisine with me; there is Mathias, also known as ‘Zero Minutes’ because he is always busy and willing to quickly lend a hand to whatever job needs being done; conversely, there is Dennis the tailor, aptly named ‘Come Tomorrow’ who I gave a pair of pants to refit and regrettably told him I was in no hurry to have them back. He returned them 8 months later! These are just a few examples. It seems each day brings new personalities and thus opportunities to grow into my life.

Yes, I miss certain things from my home, especially my grown children, but none of these things even close to the point of distraction. It is true that I don’t have a grocery store here with mile-long aisles of cereals, meats, fruits and vegetables. There’s no McDonalds, Starbucks or 12 lane highways either. However, I do have a local market where the food is farm-to-table, lacking any injections of chemical preservatives that most of us cannot pronounce and even fewer of us want to know why they are ‘necessary’; and I do know how to cook. Travel is slower, but, like most people here, I’m in no hurry. There’s a lack of heavy industry and its inherent pollution.  The electricity goes out sporadically and the internet can be spotty at times, but I stopped watching TV years ago and I don’t depend on the web so much. So, I’m lacking processed and fast food, faster cars, heavy industry, and gourmet coffee. Necessities? Hmmm… Yes, it can be a bit warm here (ha-ha), but my physical health has never been better and my inner peace is flourishing. Life is far from perfect for the people in Damongo of which I am now one, yet I am always struck by the fact that they seem far more happy and less anxious on the whole with what appears to be so much less than the culture I was raised in. Perhaps we’ve gotten the whole ‘mission thing’ wrong. Perhaps it is places like Ghana that should be sending their missioners to places like America.